Venice is a giant civilization maze, both historically and architecturally . More than once, walking through the corridors of the city, I felt like a rodent in training, looking for cheese. But I felt like an experimental rodent in the best of possible ways; with excitement and fascination, being in a new place, a very famous place with more than a millennia of history. Some corridors open up into plazas of various sizes, some are barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side. And yet even the narrowest alleys are called roads and have names. Naturally, I wondered how in the world such a place ever came into existence.
During the Roman Empire, Venice did not exist. The area was a series of lagoons called “the Seven Seas,” and yes, that is where this phrase comes from. The area did have several important coastal cities and was a major region for shipping and trade.
When rome fell due to the Barbarians, Goths, and Huns in the 5th century, the area became threatened and at risk. The locals were afraid of the marauders, and started hiding out in muddy islands of these lagoons. They eventually set up homes on these muddy islands. The residents started to build breakaways to prevent further silting of the river… and thus the islands grew larger from centuries of accumulated silt. (I often wonder what I will make with all the dryer lint I’ve saved over the decades). Over time the natural archipelago grew larger and the city grew.
The city eventually became a very important trade route between the east and west. In particular, during the heyday of the Byzantine empire, trade between Byzantium and Europe flourished, and Venice was the center of it. The Byzantine empire was often referred to as the “New Rome,” lasted for several centuries, and was a major region for the growth of Orthodox Christianity. Modern Orthodox Christians still draw a lot of traditions from the Byzantine era. (I still often miss the Byzantine Empire; these were some of the best centuries of my life).
During this era, Venetians were often the innovators in Europe; the first to make paper from rags instead of sheepskin, and inexpensively at that. They were the first to offer copyrights, in 1474. The printing industry boomed as a result. Naturally, they developed a thriving ship building industry, and was the best, fastest, most reliable and efficient in all of Europe at the time. They were also the first city in the world to have a Ghetto. Venice had a love/hate relationship with the local Jews, and after centuries of vacillating policies regarding jews, the Doge and City Council restricted their homes to one particular unappealing island, where they continue to dwell for centuries.
Venice started to decline after the fall of the Byzantine empire, since trade between Byzantium and Europe was the main source of its wealth and power. Thus, Venice was most powerful from the 700’s until the mid 1400’s.During these centuries of Venice’s power and influence, it was a city-state, and the ruler of Venice was called the “Doge.” The Doge palace is still a popular site to see today. The last Doge abdicated after Napoleon invaded the area. The city was ruled then by France, and later, Austria. It finally joined the kingdom of Italy in 1866.
Venice has a fascinating and truly unique history. It’s beauty is rare and sometimes while walking through the city, it feels like something from a science fiction or fantasy world.
Walking around the city is quite surreal; confusing corridors that wind around without any planning. Some quite narrow, barely large enough for one obese man to walk down; yet even these slim alley ways have names to them, and are “streets” on Google Maps. Buildings and towers that are leaning, and reinforced with steel to stop further effects of gravity (note with the photos; metal slats on the outside of the walls; a part of the iron reinforcement inserted into the buildings after centuries of gradual leaning. Restaurants on the canal, selling fish soup and pizza. Courtyards by every church, with outdoor cafes and gelato shops. There are countless shops selling masks for masquerade balls, leather (purses, shoes, clothing, etc.), and Murano glass. Bars with no seating, fruit smoothie stands outdoors (vodka optional), hundreds of shops with signs selling “Pizza Kababs.” I have not tried a pizza kebab yet, but I suspect they might actually be two separate items.
With endless crowds in the tourists sections, on of my favorite parts was to wander off the main drag and stumble across the areas where people actually live, with trees and parks and playground; quieter streets, children playing, with stores for plumbing, hardware, groceries.
The entire experience was incredible and fantastic and I am glad I went.
