Regensburg; Modern Fun in a Medieval Town

I've visited 5 different countries in Europe and a couple dozen cities. So far, Regensburg is my favorite. Regensburg is confident, beautiful and peaceful. It is organic in the sense that is real and not contrived. It is simultaneously ancient and vibrantly new. It has the world's oldest sausage shop, a 400-year-old candy store, and an 800 year old bridge that was once considered one of the wonders of the world.  But more impressive to me than the historical depth, is that we could be out at all hours at the night and feel totally safe. Midnight, walking hand in hand, surrounded by lovers laughing in German, business people, small groups of people enjoying the night. Two in the morning, catching Pokémon.  In fact, even the Pokémon are friendlier in Germany. I met many of them and had great conversations. I have a great Pikachu as a Facebook friend now, but that’s another story.

Porta Praetoria

The bridge, sausage shop, history, and the candy…all warrant separate posts, so I will use this post to tell more about history, as well as the modern ambience in the city. The city began as a roman outpost.  In 179 A.D., Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius ordered a fort to be built on the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen rivers.  (Thus the name of Regensburg). The Fort was the beginning of Regensburg. One of the towers and gates of that fort still stands today, and is incorporated into an active building. It is called the Porta Praetoria. Anything this old and historically significant certainly deserves a unique name. I mean, when I was a teenager, I named my first car because it was 15 years old, and here we have structures going back two millennia. That's way older than all of the cars I've owned combined.  Other still-used buildings were built at the base of the fort.

The city began a period of great prosperity in the 12th century that lasted well into the 18th century. During this time, it became the main seat of the Holy Roman Empire. The "Holy Roman Empire" was neither Roman nor Holy. It arose three centuries after the demise of the actual and real Roman Empire, and was not really an empire, but an affiliation of kingdoms. It was a sort of a medieval U.N. with very little power. It's as accurate as "Buffalo Wings."  I've seen live buffalo, and they don't have wings. Regardless of the questionable power of the "Holy Roman Empire," it none the less it brought commerce and influence to Regensburg for centuries. 

Three Views of the Golden Tower

During the 13th century, the wealthy began erecting towers. They lived in these towers. The height of the tower was monument to family wealth. One such tower built in 1259 still stands. My wife and I stood next to it and touched it. It is called the "Golden Tower" and is still very much in use. To this American, such antiquity leaves me in awe. And by the way, I could not find any gold in it. While I am half German in my heritage, I am also half Irish, and look more like a leprechaun than most Germans. I was hoping to find a pot of gold next to myself in the tower basement, but no luck. 

The Goliath house was built in 1260 at the base of the old Roman Fort. It was a theology school.

The students were called "Goliards" because their guardian angel was named Golias. Due to the close pronunciation and more well known story of Goliath, the name of the house evolved. The painting of David and Goliath was completed by Melchior Bocksberger in 1573. The painting is 200 years older than my country, and has weathered much better.

A "Ratskeller" is a pub next to a Rathaus. A Rathaus is a town hall, or municipal building.  A "Platz" is a main square. The Rathausplatz is one of the many surreally beautiful old areas of town. (I love the fact that the place politicians work in is a rat house). Down the street is a statue of Don Juan de Austria. He was born here in 1547, the bastard son of Charles V, the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. In spite of being a bastard Don Juan was wealthy, influential and well educated. (Bastards, politicians and rats are often the same). There are some rumors that he was a womanizer. The first fictional story about a womanizer named Don Juan was written in Spain in 1630.  While Don Juan of Austria was born in Regensburg, he was actually raised in Spain and lived much of his life there. Is this a coincidence or stories of horny German expatriates?

Rathausplatz

Ratzkeller

Rathaus

Don Juan of Austria

Amidst all of this ancient and intriguing history, as you walk the streets of Regensburg, you cannot help but to be keenly aware of the vibrancy of the city. It is young, energetic and alive. There is nightlife all over the city, into the wee hours of the morning. We were out until 2 a.m. several times. We felt totally safe at all times. There were always people out; groups of business professionals, young adults, lovers walking hand in hand. People walking, eating, chatting, drinking a beer as they walked through town. Yes, drinking beer. It is totally legal and completely acceptable to walk through German cities with a beer. In fact, its commonplace We did not see anyone who was drunk or obnoxious.

The people of Regensburg are super friendly. I have found this to be true of every German city I have visited. I have spent time in five German cities now, and I am impressed by the warm hearted friendliness of Germans all over Bavaria. Please note I said I have "Spent time," not "doing time."  Not even for trespassing in the Golden Tower. My experience with Germans is that they are universally warm-hearted, friendly, polite and professional.

The contrast of the modern city with wifi, ATMs, Google Maps on my iPhone against the centuries and centuries of rich history made the whole experience all the more surreal.