Venice

Venice is a giant civilization maze, both historically and architecturally . More than once, walking through the corridors of the city, I felt like a rodent in training, looking for cheese. But I felt like an experimental rodent in the best of possible ways; with excitement and fascination, being in a new place, a very famous place with more than a millennia of history. Some corridors open up into plazas of various sizes, some are barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side. And yet even the narrowest alleys are called roads and have names. Naturally, I wondered how in the world such a place ever came into existence.

During the Roman Empire, Venice did not exist. The area was a series of lagoons called “the Seven Seas,” and yes, that is where this phrase comes from. The area did have several important coastal cities and was a major region for shipping and trade. 

When rome fell due to the Barbarians, Goths, and Huns in the 5th century, the area became threatened and at risk. The locals were afraid of the marauders, and started hiding out in muddy islands of these lagoons. They eventually set up homes on these muddy islands. The residents started to build breakaways to prevent further silting of the river… and thus the islands grew larger from centuries of accumulated silt. (I often wonder what I will make with all the dryer lint I’ve saved over the decades). Over time the natural archipelago grew larger and the city grew.

The city eventually became a very important trade route between the east and west. In particular, during the heyday of the Byzantine empire, trade between Byzantium and Europe flourished, and Venice was the center of it. The Byzantine empire was often referred to as the “New Rome,” lasted for several centuries, and was a major region for the growth of Orthodox Christianity. Modern Orthodox Christians still draw a lot of traditions from the Byzantine era. (I still often miss the Byzantine Empire; these were some of the best centuries of my life).

During this era, Venetians were often the innovators in Europe; the first to make paper from rags instead of sheepskin, and inexpensively at that. They were the first to offer copyrights, in 1474. The printing industry boomed as a result. Naturally, they developed a thriving ship building industry, and was the best, fastest, most reliable and efficient in all of Europe at the time. They were also the first city in the world to have a Ghetto. Venice had a love/hate relationship with the local Jews, and after centuries of vacillating policies regarding jews, the Doge and City Council restricted their homes to one particular unappealing island, where they continue to dwell for centuries.

Venice started to decline after the fall of the Byzantine empire, since trade between Byzantium and Europe was the main source of its wealth and power. Thus, Venice was most powerful from the 700’s until the mid 1400’s.

During these centuries of Venice’s power and influence, it was a city-state, and the ruler of Venice was called the “Doge.” The Doge palace is still a popular site to see today.  The last Doge abdicated after Napoleon invaded the area. The city was ruled then by France, and later, Austria. It finally joined the kingdom of Italy in 1866.

Venice has a fascinating and truly unique history. It’s beauty is rare and sometimes while walking through the city, it feels like something from a science fiction or fantasy world.

Walking around the city is quite surreal; confusing corridors that wind around without any planning. Some quite narrow, barely large enough for one obese man to walk down; yet even these slim alley ways have names to them, and are “streets” on Google Maps. Buildings and towers that are leaning, and reinforced with steel to stop further effects of gravity (note with the photos; metal slats on the outside of the walls; a part of the iron reinforcement inserted into the buildings after centuries of gradual leaning. Restaurants on the canal, selling fish soup and pizza. Courtyards by every church, with outdoor cafes and gelato shops. There are countless shops selling masks for masquerade balls, leather (purses, shoes, clothing, etc.), and Murano glass. Bars with no seating, fruit smoothie stands outdoors (vodka optional), hundreds of shops with signs selling “Pizza Kababs.”  I have not tried a pizza kebab yet, but I suspect they might actually be two separate items.

We made it a goal to have a different fish soup every day for lunch… every bowl was outstanding, and a little different than the previous one. But they all had shellfish… and you had to dig the meat out of the shells in the soup to eat it. Which makes playing with your food before you eat it okay. 

With endless crowds in the tourists sections, on of my favorite parts was to wander off the main drag and stumble across the areas where people actually live, with trees and parks and playground; quieter streets, children playing, with stores for plumbing, hardware, groceries.

The entire experience was incredible and fantastic and I am glad I went. 

The Noodle Shop

One of my favorite restaurants in downtown Asheville is The Noodle Shop. I remember eating there with my sister and brother in law, out on the sidewalk cafe, when I was first considering relocating there. I have been there many times since. I even have a favorite waitress, Meredith, but Suzy and Riley and the rest of the staff are also outstanding

I had a great talk with Alan Kong, the owner. Alan is from the northeastern Chinese town of Harbin, but has been an American citizen for decades. His family started this restaurant in 1999, and he took complete ownership of it a couple years ago. Alan is always in the kitchen, except when he comes out to check on the customers and greet the regulars in friendly conversation. 

All the recipes are old family recipes straight from northern China. Their big thing is Pho. They have several varieties of Pho, several intensities of spiciness. Pho is a delicious type of Asian soup, it is a huge bowl, full of veggies and meat. It is hot and satisfying, healthy and low calorie. No matter what your diet, you can never go wrong with a hot bowl of Pho. They bring out extra spices for you to add to your soup if you want.  

I’ve also had their fantastic spring roll and eggplant stir fry. They have a lot of seafood and vegetarian dishes. The basil eggplant is stir fried with peppers, garlic, ginger, onion,  and served with your choice of a variety of noodles or rice. It was tender and smooth, with an perfect blend of garlic, ginger and oil. I tried to grow an eggplant once, but it would not produce any eggs. 

I have had several of their soups and plan to try them all. My favorite (and my sister and brother in law’s favorite, too) is the Dan Dan. The Dan Dan is filled with a variety of vegetables including spinach, squash, zucchini, sprouts, cabbage, and more. It has the delicious taste of cilantro in it. It is a tantalizing combination of flavors, and each bite is a little different. It comes to the table hot, steamy and comforting. It is far too good for just one Dan, so they gave it an extra Dan. Like everything at The Noodle Shop, the flavors are fresh, authentically Asian, and nothing like the Americanized “Chinese” restaurants you find in every common city.  

They do have western cutlery, although I think eating soup with chopsticks is a lot more fun. This one is the Seafood Pho. It had so many varieties of seafood in it, I was able to put on my own performance of The Little Mermaid. Regardless of which Pho you try, you won’t find Pho better anywhere else. I pity the Pho that tries. 

Their Spring Rolls are to die for. Okay, that is just an expression, I would not die for them. But they are really good, better than the common Chinese restaurant. They serve them cut in half, standing on the open side, with duck sauce on one side and a super spicy mustard on the other. 

They don’t have a website, but they are on Facebook. Better yet, come visit them in person!

My first visit to The Noodle Shop, October 2014:

Jerusalem Garden Cafe

Once a year, downtown Asheville offers the “Small Plate Crawl.” Dozens of participating restaurants offer mini versions of their most popular entrees, for mini prices.

I spent tonight’s Small Plate Crawl at the Jerusalem Garden Cafe.

The owner of the restaurant, Farouk Badr, was born in Jordan and grew up in Jerusalem. After immigrating here 35 years ago, he and his brother opened a pharmacy next door to the restaurant. Five years later, Mr. Badr and his wife bought the sandwich shop next to the pharmacy. His brother still owns the pharmacy. 

All the recipes in the restaurant are old family recipes straight from the middle east. 

Tonight I had the Fatayer Spinach Pie with house made turmeric dough, stuffed with spinach, feta, peppers, and onions. It was really an exceptional spinach pie, and I will go back just for that alone. I should go back on March 14, for Pi day, and see if they have a discount. Maybe if I calculate the area of the circular Pi tin they bake it in, it will impress them. I still remember my high school geometry teacher telling me “Pi are squared.”  That is when I knew she was an idiot, because I've had a lot of pie, and all pie are round. That’s why you use Pi to calculate the area of a circle! If it were square, it would be cake!  But it’s pi. But enough of that. 

I also enjoyed the grape leaves and falafel. These are two of my favorite Middle Eastern Dishes. Their preparation was classic and delicious.

Finally, I also ordered the Pistachio-encrusted lamb chop. The meat was braised in a pomegranate molasses, and one of the most surprising flavors I’ve come across in a long time. It was served on a Greek salad. The Greek salad was fresh and crisp and sprinkled with Feta Cheese. It was really superb, and I will have to return for this too, maybe the day after Pi day.

The atmosphere was fantastic. Very comfortable, colorful, and well lit. The wait staff was friendly and efficient.

 
                                                     

The weather was so nice, I ended up taking my meal outside. 

The view of the bustling city was entertainment in and of itself. 

I had to return on Friday for the belly dancing, and learned more about this great restaurant. 

There are three seating venues. Outdoors on the sidewalk, where I ate on Wednesday, inside in a cozy and warm interior…. or the back room, called the “Tent” which is very romantic and out of the way, which gives you a feeling that you are desert royalty. 

On Friday and Saturday, there is belly dancing, and it is quite  mesmerizing. The musician was playing an instrument called the “Oud,” which is a predecessor to the Lute and Guitar. I had the pleasure of meeting the Oud Player and the Belly Dancer. They were both very interesting, well educated and fun.

Chris Stack is the musician, and he is very active in the local music scene. He comes from an engineering background. You can visit his music and technology website at ChrisStack.

Charlotte Louise is the belly dancer. She teaches belly dancing at Zahiya Dance Studio on Saturdays. 

Visit them online, Jerusalemgardencafe  or in person!! If you visit them on weekends.. you get to experience a live band and belly dancing.